Chardonnay is simultaneously the world’s most popular and most maligned wine. The winemaker’s use of oak is often at the root of the controversy. Many wine drinkers choose versions that have never seen the inside of a barrel—to the detriment of their wine appreciation. Oak, when used in a restrained fashion by a skilled winemaker, adds a level of complexity to Chardonnay seldom seen in other white wines.

Oak aging imparts flavours of vanilla, toast, and butter to the wine and makes the wine feel softer and fuller-bodied on the palate. It also gives it a rich, deep golden colour in the glass. Accomplished winemakers think of oak in the same way great chefs think of salt—too much and the dish is spoiled. The goal is to achieve a balance of flavours, ensuring the oak is barely perceptible and enhances the other components in the wine.

The Burrowing Owl Estate Bottled Chardonnay 2019 from BC’s Okanagan Valley is an example of a deftly crafted barrel-aged Chardonnay (87% French oak, 11% American oak, and 2% Acacia with 50% new, 36% one-year-old, and 14% two-year or older barrels). This judicious use of oak has resulted in a well-integrated wine with just enough vanilla, butter, and spice to complement the fruity flavours of ripe stone fruit and citrus.

If you are someone who avoids oaked Chardonnay, give this one a try. It will forever change your opinion of oak and Chardonnay.